Deserted beaches, wild rivers and seaside chill: four days walking in NSW’s largest coastal park | Australia holidays

The tiny city of Brooms Head in northern New South Wales isn’t far more than a headland, a row of Norfolk Island pines and a sprawling caravan park separating the principle highway from the seashore. It’s the form of place with one store, the place the bestsellers are bait, blended lollies and icy poles.

On a day journey there from close by Angourie, our household lay sprawled on the seashore, consuming Cornettos within the solar, when 4 males walked previous carrying packs – large, correct ones, adorned with damp swimmers. I gave chase.

“Excuse me,” I requested one. “The place are you going?”

“To Crimson Rock,” he replied, pointing at a headland simply seen on the southern horizon. This was their second day on the four-day, 65km Yuraygir coastal stroll, staying in campsites alongside the best way.

It was 2020 and an concept was born. At some point my youngsters (then 5, 8 and 11) would certainly, lastly, be sufficiently big for correct adventures. And after they have been, this is able to be the place to start out.

Which is how my twin sister Laura, our 5 youngsters – aged 9 to fifteen – and I got here to be setting off right into a raging headwind from Angourie Level in July 2024. Huge waves have been rolling into the well-known surf break however we turned south, leaving the wetsuit crowd behind.

It was the winter faculty holidays, however over the subsequent 4 days we noticed solely 4 different walkers.

We quickly settled into a gentle rhythm of speaking and strolling over diversified terrain. There have been kilometres alongside broad, abandoned seashores made moody by swollen clouds, the sand hard-packed by days of rain. Then sections via the coastal heath behind, the place pandanus palms shed leaves in shiny strips amongst tunnels of tea tree. Headlands gave views alongside sweeping sand and inland to the triangular Clarence Peak, whereas cosy clearings hid primary campsites dotted with large kangaroos.

After 13km we reached Lake Arragan campground, a smattering of tents and vehicles accessible by highway. In summer season the tea tree-stained lake is busy with youngsters, canoes and fishing, however the one individual braving the wind was a kitesurfer on the seashore.

5 kilometres of sand later, we reached Brooms Head basic retailer, our freshly renovated three-bedroom flat perched above. Keys, wine and dinner provides in hand, we retired upstairs for warm showers, drinks on the balcony overlooking the seashore, dinner, playing cards and cozy beds.

Yuraygir is the wildest stretch of shoreline between Sydney and Brisbane – 65km of beachy bliss on land historically owned by the Yaegl and Gumbaynggirr folks. Protected against improvement by coastal ranges and rivers, elements of it have been logged, mined for sand and used for grazing till gazettement in 1980 made it NSW’s largest coastal park.

Three tiny cities (Brooms Head, Minnie Water and Wooli) are conveniently spaced to supply meals and shelter, whereas campsites permit a wilder expertise. The village of Crimson Rock (the headland is the location of a bloodbath of Gumbaynggirr folks in 1841) marks the top of the monitor. If you wish to proceed strolling, Crimson Rock can be the beginning of the Solitary Islands coastal stroll, extending 60km south to the city of Sawtell, close to Coffs Harbour.

It’s an accessible, versatile journey, excellent for hardcore teams and lightweights like us who wish to stroll via wilderness, not carry a lot and keep in consolation. The temperate local weather makes it excellent for strolling year-round. Even in winter we principally hiked in T-shirts, donning puffer jackets and fleeces after we stopped, whereas the summer season problem could be becoming in sufficient swims with out getting burnt.

Pelicans farewelled us from Brooms Head whereas whales beckoned alongside the lengthy, broad stretch of north Sandon seashore. Driving on this seashore (and some others) is allowed; at first it’s disconcerting when a four-wheel-drive roars previous, nevertheless it’s so broad there’s loads of room.

The sand was interrupted by certainly one of NSW’s cleanest rivers, the Sandon, deep and broad sufficient to make us grateful we’d organized a elevate. The supervisor of the Sandon River campground, Geoff Harper, was ready to take us throughout within the trusty Bobsta, a custom-made, flat-bottomed punt adorned with a snarling shark. However first he had a shock.

Shortly earlier than, he’d discovered a stranded loggerhead turtle and put in a name to Ballina’s Australia Seabird & Turtle Rescue. “Fortunate” lounged in a dinghy awaiting his checkup, blinking at us properly as we oohed and aahed. The subsequent day Geoff messaged to inform us the turtle had lived as much as his title: he was advantageous and could be launched again into the wild.

As Geoff zipped us throughout the river, he listed the sharks that got here right here to feed on fishermen’s scraps (bull, lemon, white pointer) making us much more grateful we weren’t swimming. His reply to the “how far to go to Minnie Water” query was spot on – two hours and 45 minutes – however he ought to know. He grew up right here, used to run barefoot to Minnie Water for icy poles and has walked that leg of the journey 63 instances.

On we went, previous tiny Sandon village. When you squinted, it was like time-travelling again to the Twenties: the entrance yards of the three dozen homes (principally fibro shacks) have been adorned with boats and buoys, reachable solely by way of the 12km seashore to Minnie Water.

That evening on the Minnie Water vacation park, we have been joined by my husband, bringing wine, salad and succulent Yamba prawns to our caravan-park cabins. He joined us for the subsequent two days as we walked alongside seashores and rock ledges, crossed two extra rivers (by boat at Wooli, swimming the Corindi River on the stroll’s finish), previous pelicans, oystercatchers and large, bone-white cuttlefish gleaming like aliens on the sand.

The realm feels extra distant than it appears on the map, each in location and perspective. It’s nonetheless regular to smile and cease for a chat right here. Friendliness was common, from random canine walkers to the workers within the eclectic Minnie Water basic retailer (promoting coffees, burgers, booze, handmade jumpers, secondhand surfboards and extra) and locals within the Wooli resort motel (our third evening’s lodging). Individuals supplied us lifts and recommendation and despatched updates about sick turtles.

However the perfect bits of the journey have been the hours of speaking, connection in each mixture. Having the time and house to speak about issues that in any other case get crowded out, one thing aided by train, motion and nature and supplemented with chocolate. It proved that – certainly, lastly – we’re prepared for correct household adventures.

Lodging and meals

There are many meals and lodging choices, together with the place we stayed – the Brooms Head basic retailer (from $190 an evening), Minnie Water vacation park (from $105 for a cabin) and Wooli resort motel (from $120 for a single room). The primary two are serviced by a basic retailer, whereas the latter has a restaurant providing lunch and dinner.

Different choices embody Brooms Head vacation park (from $89 for a cabin), Minnie Water seashore home (from $336) and Wooli River lodges (from $160).

For many who wish to camp, there are many nationwide park choices together with at Lake Arragan, Illaroo, Boorkoom and Pebbly Seashore, in addition to the vacation parks at Brooms Head and Minnie Water. You may combine and match the place you keep relying in your strolling tempo, timeline and yearning for wilderness or creature comforts. All nationwide park camp websites have bogs however just some have consuming water – test fastidiously earlier than you permit.

Transport and logistics

Both do a automotive shuttle from Angourie and drop a automotive at Crimson Rock or prepare a switch with Coffs Harbour Taxis (0400 113 699), Woolgoolga Taxis (02 6654 1273), Yamba and Maclean Taxi Companies (02 6620 9215) or Grafton Taxis (02 6642 3622). Woopi Join is an on-demand shared bus service that matches as much as six passengers and providers the realm south of Crimson Rock. Public transport providers are sporadic and require a number of oblique connections.

Tour corporations equivalent to Life’s an Journey and Dwelling Comforts Climbing provide guided walks for personal teams.

River crossings

To organise crossing the Sandon River, contact Geoff Harper on 0407 362 118. Wooli River Boat Rent (0439 409 909) prepare crossings of the Wooli River. There isn’t a industrial service for crossing the Corindi River to Crimson Rock. Widespread approaches are to swim (solely at low tide, at your individual threat, after doing your individual analysis) or hope to fulfill a pleasant native with a ship alongside the best way! If circumstances will not be protected, end your stroll at Wooli as that is the final highway entry.

Additional info

The strolling was not troublesome and infrequently boring. Care, time and thought have been wanted on some sections. See the NSW Nationwide Parks and Wildlife Service web site for updates on the stroll, together with warnings concerning the risks of huge seas alongside rock ledges and present alerts about monitor closures and baiting operations.

For maps, details about campgrounds, availability of water, in addition to native wildlife, obtain this pamphlet.